If you have ever shopped for South Asian jewellery, you have probably come across three terms over and over: polki, kundan, and American diamond. They all look stunning, but they are quite different in how they are made, how they look, and when you might want to wear each one. Let us break it down in plain language.
Kundan Jewellery: The Timeless Classic
Kundan is a 2,500-year-old jewellery-making technique from Rajasthan, India. The word "kundan" actually refers to the method of setting stones, not the stones themselves. Artisans use refined gold foil and lac (a natural resin) to set glass or gemstones into a metal framework. The result is that signature warm, regal look with a slightly organic feel.
What to Look For
- Warm gold tones with a slightly irregular, handcrafted feel
- Stones that sit flush within the gold setting rather than protruding
- A heavier feel than American diamond pieces — that weight is part of the quality
- Often combined with meenakari (enamel work) on the reverse side
Best For
Wedding ceremonies, Eid celebrations, formal events, and any occasion where you want a traditional, regal look. Browse our Mona Lisa Kundan collection for contemporary kundan choker sets in every colour.
Polki Jewellery: The Uncut Diamond Look
Polki refers to uncut, unpolished diamonds in their natural flat form. Historically, polki jewellery featured real diamonds, making it the most prized (and expensive) form of South Asian jewellery. Today, high-quality polki-style pieces use crystal and glass that replicate that distinctive uncut stone appearance at a fraction of the cost — without sacrificing the look.
What to Look For
- Flat, irregularly shaped stones with a raw, organic sparkle
- More reflective and glittery than kundan, but without the uniform brilliance of cut stones
- Often set with smaller stones surrounding a larger centre piece
- Pairs beautifully with pearls and gold
Best For
Nikah ceremonies, walima celebrations, anniversary events, and occasions where you want sparkle with heritage. Polki has a depth and character that photographs beautifully. Explore our Kashmir Heritage collection for polki sets inspired by Mughal artistry.
American Diamond (VVS/CZ): The Modern Statement
American diamond — also called CZ (cubic zirconia) or VVS — refers to lab-created stones that are precision-cut to mimic the brilliance of natural diamonds. These stones are perfectly symmetrical, incredibly sparkly, and have that clean, modern fire that catches light from across the room.
What to Look For
- Perfectly uniform, faceted stones with intense sparkle
- Often set in silver-toned or white gold-style settings for a contemporary look
- Lighter weight than kundan or polki — comfortable for all-day wear
- Clean lines and geometric designs
Best For
Modern celebrations, Sangeet nights, formal dinners, cocktail events, and any time you want maximum sparkle. Our VVS American Diamond collection features 77 designs from chandelier sets to minimalist chokers.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Feature | Kundan | Polki | American Diamond |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stone Type | Glass set in gold foil | Uncut flat crystal/glass | Precision-cut CZ |
| Look | Warm, regal, traditional | Raw sparkle, organic | Brilliant, modern, clean |
| Weight | Medium to heavy | Medium to heavy | Light to medium |
| Price Range | $30 - $75 | $28 - $65 | $30 - $90 |
| Best Occasion | Weddings, Eid, formal | Nikah, heritage events | Sangeet, modern events |
How to Tell Quality
Regardless of the type, here is what separates good South Asian jewellery from the rest:
- Stone setting: Stones should be secure and evenly set, with no gaps or wobbling
- Finish: Gold plating should be even with no discoloured patches
- Weight: Quality pieces have a satisfying weight — avoid anything that feels hollow or flimsy
- Back finish: Good kundan and polki pieces have clean meenakari or a smooth back — not rough or unfinished
You Do Not Have to Choose Just One
At Jewellery by Aman, we carry all three types because every celebration deserves the right piece. Every set is handpicked for quality, inspected before shipping, and delivered from Canada with free shipping over $99 CAD. Whether you gravitate toward the heritage warmth of kundan, the organic sparkle of polki, or the modern brilliance of American diamond, you will find your perfect jewellery set here.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is more expensive — Polki, Kundan, or American Diamond jewellery?
Authentic Polki jewellery set with uncut natural diamonds is the most expensive of the three, often costing thousands of dollars for a single set. Kundan jewellery falls in the mid-range, while VVS American Diamond offers the most accessible price point — delivering brilliant sparkle at a fraction of the cost. At Jewellery by Aman, our VVS American Diamond collection starts from just $54.99 CAD.
Can I mix Polki and Kundan jewellery in the same outfit?
Absolutely. Mixing Polki and Kundan pieces is a popular styling choice for South Asian weddings and celebrations, especially across multi-event functions like Sangeet and Reception. The key is to keep one style as the statement piece — for example, a Polki choker paired with Kundan jhumkas — and ensure the gold tones complement each other.
Which style is best for a Canadian South Asian wedding?
It depends on the event and your outfit. For the Nikah or main ceremony, Polki and Kundan sets offer the most traditional, regal look. For the Sangeet or Reception, VVS American Diamond sets add modern glamour. Many brides across the GTA choose different styles for different events — one set per function — which is why complete sets are so popular.
How can I tell if Kundan jewellery is high quality?
Look for precision in the stone setting — each stone should sit flush with no visible gaps or uneven edges. The backing should be smooth and well-finished, and the overall weight should feel substantial without being uncomfortably heavy. High-quality Kundan uses refined lac work and symmetrical patterns that catch the light evenly across the piece.
